Into the water cave: an Alisadr day trip from Hamedan

Alisadr is the one excursion almost every visitor to Hamedan makes, and for good reason: there are very few places on earth where you can drift by boat through a lit underground lake. A little planning makes the difference between a magical morning and an afternoon in a queue.

Getting there

The cave lies about 75 kilometres north of Hamedan, roughly an hour and a half by car through farmland and low hills. There is no convenient public transport, so most people drive, take a taxi for the day or join a tour from the city.

Timing

Aim to arrive when the ticket office opens. Queues build quickly from mid-morning, and during Nowruz and the summer holidays the wait can stretch for hours. Weekdays outside holiday season are the calmest.

The visit

Guides load visitors into small boats that are pedalled or paddled through the main lake and its channels. The water is still and very clear; coloured lights pick out the formations overhead. After the boat section you continue on foot through a dry part of the cave. Inside, the air stays cool all year, so bring a jacket.

On the way back: Lalejin

Lalejin, Iran's pottery capital, sits just off the road back to Hamedan. Stop at any open workshop to watch potters at the wheel and buy turquoise-glazed bowls straight from the kiln — it turns a cave trip into a full, varied day.