An evening with Baba Taher

Baba Taher's quatrains are short — four lines, two couplets — and many Iranians carry a few of them in memory. Visiting his tomb in the early evening is the easiest way to understand why this 11th-century mystic still feels so close to the city.

The climb

From Baba Taher Square, stepped terraces lead up through the garden to the tower. Take your time: the climb is part of the experience, with the turquoise dome appearing and disappearing between the trees.

Look up, then read

Inside, the tiled ceiling is a dazzling star of blue and gold. Then lower your eyes to the marble panels around the walls, where his quatrains are carved. Even if you can't read Persian, the rhythm of the lines is visible in the stone.

Stay for dusk

As the light fades, families spread out on the lawns and the tower is lit. On some evenings musicians gather to play and sing his verses. Afterwards, walk down to the Alavian Dome, a few minutes away, to see some of the finest Seljuk stucco in Iran.