How to shop Hamedan's Grand Bazaar

Hamedan's bazaar is a working market, not a museum, which is exactly what makes it worth visiting. Here is how to get the most out of a morning under its vaults.

Start at Imam Khomeini Square

The bazaar spreads north from the city's central square. Enter from the square and let yourself wander — the lanes are roughly organised by trade, so you will drift from fabrics to spices to metalwork.

What to look for

Hamedan has long been known for leather goods, and you will find gloves, bags and jackets throughout. The carpet halls are worth a visit even if you are not buying, for their domed ceilings alone. The coppersmiths' lane is loud and lively, and the nut and dried-fruit sellers will happily let you taste.

Bargaining

Haggling is normal for carpets, handicrafts and larger purchases; for everyday goods prices are usually fixed. Be friendly, take your time and don't be afraid to walk away.

Timing

Mornings are the liveliest. Many shops close for a midday break and most are shut on Fridays.