Turquoise and clay: a morning in Lalejin

Lalejin makes pottery the way other towns make bread. Walk down almost any street on a weekday morning and you will hear the hum of wheels and see racks of drying jugs stacked to the ceiling.

Pick a workshop

There is no need to plan: most workshops are happy to have visitors. Step inside, say hello and watch. Potters throw bowls and vases in seconds, and the kilns in the back rooms are fired from early in the day.

Try the wheel

Many potters will invite you to sit down and try. Your first pot will almost certainly collapse; that is part of the fun, and it makes you appreciate how effortless they make it look.

Shopping

Lalejin is best known for its deep turquoise glaze, but you will also find cobalt blues, painted plates and unglazed terracotta. Prices in the workshops are far below city shops. Ask for extra wrapping if you are carrying pieces home.

Combine it

Lalejin is on the road to Alisadr Cave, so the two make a natural day out. Avoid Fridays, when many workshops are closed.