TravelBy Sara Ahmadi4 min read
Three thousand years in a day: a walk through old Hamedan
From the ancient Stone Lion to Seljuk stucco and a modernist tower — a route through the city's layers of history.
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A weathered ancient lion statue, the city's oldest monument, tied by legend to Alexander the Great.
The Stone Lion is the oldest monument standing in Hamedan: a large, weather-worn lion carved from a single block of stone, now resting on a plinth in a small garden on a hill in the southeast of the city. It has given its name to the whole neighbourhood and to the square around it.
Its origins are wrapped in legend. A long-standing tradition holds that it was raised on the orders of Alexander the Great in memory of his closest friend Hephaestion, who died at Ecbatana in 324 BC; many scholars date it to the Seleucid or Parthian period that followed. Medieval writers describe it as one of a pair of lions guarding a city gate, the "Lion Gate", and say it was broken when a 10th-century ruler tried to carry it away.
In medieval accounts the lion was more than a statue: it was described as a talisman protecting the city, and its breaking was blamed for the misfortunes that followed.
Over the centuries the lion has collected folk beliefs of its own. People have rubbed it for luck, for health, and in hope of marriage or children, and its smooth, darkened surface carries the marks of all those hands. Its legs have long since gone, and its face is softened almost to a silhouette.
The site is small and open at all hours, so it takes only a few minutes — but it is a moving reminder of just how old Hamedan is. Combine it with a walk through the surrounding park.
TravelBy Sara Ahmadi4 min read
From the ancient Stone Lion to Seljuk stucco and a modernist tower — a route through the city's layers of history.
Read story
Travel notes
The Stone Lion is open at all hours and takes just a few minutes — a good first stop on a walk through old Hamedan, before Esther and Mordechai, Hegmataneh and Baba Taher. #Hamedan
1.2 km awayCulturalA striking modernist tower over the grave of the great physician and philosopher Ibn Sina, with a museum and library.
1.7 km awayHistoryThe traditional resting place of the biblical Queen Esther and Mordechai — Iran's most important Jewish pilgrimage site.
1.7 km awayMarketA sprawling Qajar-era covered bazaar of brick vaults, carpet halls and specialist lanes off Imam Khomeini Square.
FeaturedHistoryRoyal Achaemenid inscriptions of Darius and Xerxes, carved into granite beside a mountain waterfall.
FeaturedHistoryThe excavated hill of ancient Ecbatana, capital of the Medes, with an on-site museum of its finds.
HistoryA Seljuk-era family mausoleum famous for some of the finest carved stucco in Iran.