Hamedan Grand Bazaar

Hamedan's Grand Bazaar is one of the largest traditional covered markets in western Iran. Most of its present fabric dates from the Qajar era in the 19th century, though trade has filled these lanes for far longer. It spreads north from Imam Khomeini Square in a maze of vaulted brick passages, courtyards and caravanserais.

The bazaar is organised in specialist rows, as old bazaars traditionally were: carpets and rugs, copper and metalwork, fabrics, spices and herbs, nuts and dried fruit, and the leather goods Hamedan has long been known for. The carpet halls, with their high domed ceilings and stacks of rugs, are among the most atmospheric spaces in the city.

Look up as you walk: the brick vaults are pierced by skylights that drop shafts of light onto the lanes, and some of the domes at the crossings are decorated with intricate geometric brick patterns. The bazaar adjoins Hamedan's Jameh Mosque and several old timchehs (covered trading halls).

It is a working market rather than a showpiece, busiest in the mornings and before holidays. Most shops close on Fridays and for a midday break. Bargaining is normal for carpets and handicrafts, less so for everyday goods.