TravelBy Sara Ahmadi3 min read
Turquoise and clay: a morning in Lalejin
Hundreds of workshops, a wheel you can try yourself, and the best prices on Iranian pottery anywhere.
Read storyHandicrafts
Iran's pottery capital — hundreds of workshops where you can watch, try the wheel and buy straight from the kiln.
Lalejin, a small town about 25 kilometres north of Hamedan, has made pottery for centuries and is known as the pottery capital of Iran. In 2016 the World Crafts Council named it a World City of Pottery. Hundreds of family workshops line its streets, and a large share of the town's people earn their living from clay.
Most workshops welcome visitors. Inside the low, dusty rooms potters throw jugs, bowls and tall vases on kick- and electric wheels at astonishing speed, rows of drying pieces fill every shelf, and kilns glow in the back rooms. Many potters will let you sit at the wheel and try for yourself.
Many of Lalejin's workshops have been handed down within the same family for generations, and potters still work local clay dug from the surrounding plain.
Lalejin is best known for its glazed ware in deep turquoise and cobalt blue, alongside unglazed terracotta and painted pieces. Prices straight from the workshop are far lower than in city shops, and the shops along the main street sell everything from small souvenirs to large garden pots.
Lalejin is an easy stop on the road to Alisadr Cave, and the two are often combined in a day. Visit on a weekday morning to see the workshops in full swing; many are closed on Fridays.
TravelBy Sara Ahmadi3 min read
Hundreds of workshops, a wheel you can try yourself, and the best prices on Iranian pottery anywhere.
Read story
Travel notes
Lalejin's pottery workshops are busiest on weekday mornings, and many close on Fridays. Most potters welcome visitors — ask nicely and you may get a turn at the wheel. #Lalejin #Pottery
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